Butterfly Dress, Burda Style 6521

Beautiful butterflies

I loved this fabric as soon as I saw it. It was on the sale rack at Joann's and I took home all that they had left. It is a quilting cotton, but I was planning to use it for a summer dress. The colors are not overly bright though and could easily work into my early fall wardrobe if I wear a cardigan over the dress. This pattern was my first from Burda Style and it recommends using rayon, crepe fabrics, lightweight cottons, or silk. I chose to make view A (no sleeves and a pleated skirt) and cut a size 16.  I did one muslin for the top of this dress, but didn't end up making any changes to the fit.

Muslin front

Muslin back

When sewing the dress together, I used french seams. The fabric has a light colored background and I thought I may have to go back and line it, but it is turned out to not be see-through.

Side seam

The armhole was finished with bias strip and then top-stitched.

Finishing the armhole

There was a lot of fabric used for the skirt and I love the pleats in the back and the front. It took awhile to put these in, but they were marked well and went together smoothly. The zipper was basted in by hand with the hopes that it would be truly hidden. Basting is an extra step, but I find it really does improve the look of my finished zippers.

Lainie helped me baste in the back zipper

The zipper is hidden well even if the fabric pattern doesn't line up

I did not make make a neckband for the muslin, so I was hoping this would work on the first try. When cutting out the neckband I tried to place butterflies strategically for the front. You can see almost two full butterflies at the neckline.

Adding the neckband

Neckband from back

Neckband turned under and finished by hand

The hem on this dress was also finished by hand.  I could have used the machine for this, but I was on a roll with the hand sewing.

Lainie is back to help with the hem

Here is the finished dress.

A butterfly dress for any occasion

The fit at the top looks great

Plenty of room across shoulders and in armscye

Pleats in the bodice 

After lengthening the torso, I would definitely make this dress again.  There is also a version with short sleeves that looks promising. The sleeveless version here does require strategic placement of bra straps or perhaps a strapless bra.