Tamarack Jacket Wearable Muslin

Tamarack Jacket in August

This jacket was made last November, but I haven't posted about it. Here's what I remember about the construction.
The cream exterior fabric is from a bag of scraps picked up from Freecycle. I don't know what the fabric content is, but it feels like something you would use for curtains or curtain lining. It has a bit of a waffle texture and seems to hold its shape pretty well. The lining is a piece of drapery fabric that Emily gave me at work.

Stewie approves cream fabric

This was my first attempt at making any sort of jacket or coat. The pattern is the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio. I traced a size 16 except where I narrowed to a size 14 under the armscye down to the waist. The torso and sleeves were both lengthened 2 inches.

Floral lining for the sleeves

Cutting batting for back

For quilting the layers together, I used the walking foot on my Bernina 730 Record and evenly spaced horizontal rows. I could see where there are endless possibilities for quilting here, but I kept it basic for this first jacket.

Basted in reference lines for quilting

Quilting a sleeve

The seams in this muslin are not finished and I will definitely want to finish them on the next coat. There is fraying fabric and batting that I will not put up with next time.

Welt pockets were new for me and I watched a couple videos online, consulted a few sewing reference books, and followed the Tamarack Jacket sew-along instructions that Graineline Studio provided. I think they turned out well as viewed from the front, but the pocket lining is unfinished and I think it needs to be anchored to the inside of the jacket.

Floral pocket lining

At one point I really thought I had inserted the pocket flap upside down. I was sure that the flap should be hanging down from the top over the pocket opening. Since it was a muslin, I wasn't planning to go back and change that, but I did spend time rereading the directions and consulting the Grainline Studio sew-along to see what I would need to change for next time. It was in the sew-along that I realized the pocket wasn't constructed incorrectly, it just wasn't finished yet. The loose flap needed to be hand-stitched on the ends and secured to the front of the coat

I thought I had erred in my pocket construction, still need to attach flap

For the bias binding I used denim. The neckline and front opening of the jacket are selvedge and the jacket hem and sleeves are pieced denim strips.

Raw selvedge look adds great texture

Bias binding on front and bottom hem, one sleeve attached

Hook and eye fasteners were used for the front. I don't like how there are distinct gaps and spaces between the fasteners and I probably won't use those for the next jacket. I did see a tutorial for a zipper front somewhere in my research, I think I'd like to try that next time.

Denim pops against white 

I like the different lengths in front and back

Pocket linings inside out

The finished jacket looks pretty good from the outside, but is a bit messy inside. It's also a bit big across the shoulders. The light color exterior quilted in rows gives it a distinct Michelin Tire Man look. Before I make my first fashion fabric coat, I'll trace a smaller, size 14.

Increased sleeve length is good

Maybe make pockets a bit deeper

Still don't like gaps between hook and eyes on front

Good length in back