Another Bird Shirt and Pants

This fabric for the cami was left over from a shirt I made years ago. That one frayed so much that it ended up in the donation bin. This time, I have a getter understanding of how to finish seams and hems. I used my hacked Ogden Cami pattern and then made a couple more changes to this time around.  Since this fabric was very see-through, I made a full lining this time and used two layers of the bird fabric. Now you can see birds through the top layer, but you don't see my skin. Due to fabric limitations, the lining is about an inch shorter than the cami.

Lining is more birds

The straps are black ribbon. I didn't want to have to try to turn this fabric into narrow straps, so I found an alternative. One strap doesn't lay flat against my body, but I think that has to do with my slightly uneven shoulders.

Front view

Side view, still a good fit in the armscye

I still want to raise that back neckline for next time

The trousers are a black stretch twill from Vogue and the Sasha Trouser pattern from True Bias. These are a wearable muslin so unfortunately, they have no pockets. Fortunately, they fit well and I can put pockets in the next pair.

I would wear these with a cardigan or sweater so that I have some pockets

Side view

I did make the waist higher for this pattern

Difficult to photograph black fabric

Back view

Not wrinkle free and maybe next pair will get a little more room in the seat

Sasha Trousers, Closet Case Patterns

Last August, I had started fitting a muslin for the Sasha Trousers pattern I picked up when mom and I were in Canada. There were three versions made at the time, but nothing I was ready to try in fashion fabric. In February, I decided to give fitting pants another go. I believe the pattern I cut for this version was a size 14 graded out to 16 through the hips. I added 3/4" to the upper lengthen line and 2" to the lower lengthen line. That 2" could safely be taken back down to 1" in the future.

Maybe not ideal coordinating footwear

Fabric is a ponte knit from Vogue and it was very easy to cut and sew. It has good stretch and will be comfortable to wear to work all day.

Checks are small enough that I do not need to try to pattern match at seams

For some reason, I didn't take pictures during constructions. Looking back now, I don't remember any significant issues, but maybe pics would have helped to jog my memory.

Pocket lining

Pockets and lining are scraps of quilting cotton. The right and left sides don't match, but no one will see the inside except me. The next set of pics is when I finished sewing the trousers up the first time. I set my camera phone on a timer and took a few shots to assess fit.

Horizontal lines at the crotch and zipper pulls open

Hands out helps, but I 'set' the zipper cover for this picture

Based on these pics, I added top-stitching to the flap over the zipper to help stabilize it and then I decided to wear the pants to work trying not to use the pockets. Shortly after getting to work that first day, I knew I needed to take in the waistband. By the end of first period my waistband was stretched out too much and I had to borrow a safety pin to keep my pants cinched in for the rest of the day.  A week or two later, I finally got around to making more fit adjustments. I took off the waistband in the back and cut out 1.5" before reattaching it. That improved the gaping in the back and ensured that my pants were not in danger of falling down again at work. Adjusting the waistband also helped reduce the crotch lines. The next set of pics was during self-distancing so I was employing the iPhone timer again.

Even with hands in pockets, fewer stretch lines

From the back, you can see the seam where I took in the waistband. The center back seam and the waistband seam do not line up exactly, but I'm definitely not going to lose sleep over that.

The fit on these is much improved

Zipper is still too short for these pants, next time I'll lengthen that too

Side view

Porch sitting

Zipper, snap, and a hook and eye fastener

I do intend to make another pair of these trousers to try out some adjustments to the pattern.  That's on hold for awhile though until I can get back to the fabric store. We just got word today that the stay-at-home order has been extended through April 30, so I'll move on to another sewing project for now.