A Lark Tee and A Linden Sweatshirt

Usually I buy rtw long-sleeve t-shirts, but there wasn't any in-person shopping this year so I was motivated to make a few of my own. Both the Lark Tee and the Linden Sweatshirt patterns by Grainline Studio are in my collection and I decided to try making one of each.

I had used the Lark Tee by Grainline Studio before, but I knew that the shoulder and bicep fit needed tweaking for me. The Lark Tee is a bit too narrow across the shoulders for me and I have two shirts where the fabric is tight on the upper arm. That may just be the fabric choice, but I wanted to look into the fitting there too. I had already lengthened the sleeves 1 1/2" and adjusted the side seam a bit to curve in at my waist. This time I lengthened the shoulder seam by 3/4" and lowered the bottom of the armscye about 3/4". I chose to make the long-sleeve size 10 with the crew neck. 

This very soft polka-dot fabric came from Joann Fabrics. I used my Babylock 1034D serger for most of the construction and my Bernina 1230 for the neck binding, hem, and sleeve hems.

The fit is improved. I don't know yet if it is a question of fabric choice for the bicep fit, but I didn't make any pattern changes for the biceps and this fabric works great.

For the second shirt I used the Linden Sweatshirt pattern. I traced a size 10 top graded out to a 12 at the hips. The shirt is lengthened 3" and the sleeves are lengthened 2".  There is a 1 1/2" hem band and the sleeve hems are turned under 3/4".  The fabric is a red knit with white stripes.

                                               

Look at how high the snow is stacked on the bird bath behind me. There was so much snow and so much time spent shoveling last month. Now there are crocuses and daffodils blooming. Soon it will be gardening season and I'm ready for it. 

Red Tamarack Jacket

 

Tamarack Jacket

The fabric was purchased from Ginny's Fine Fabric in Rochester, MN a few years go. Originally, I had planned for a tunic type shirt, but now I'm glad I waited for this pattern. I had made the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio a couple times already, and I started by tracing out a smaller size 12 than my last size 14. I kept the added length and curved hem at the sides seams. There were three layers to cut out for each piece. The outer layer (red and white for me), the middle layer of cotton batting, and the inside layer which was a light color cotton remnant from Pam's mom. 

Front side of jacket

After cutting each outside layer, I laid it out with the batting and backing and then hand-basted the layers together before trimming the bottom two layers.

Sleeve with layers

The outer fabric did not have a clear distinction between the front and back of the cloth. As you can see I had pin-basted two of the same jacket fronts. but caught the error before finishing basting. 

Fabric looked very similar on front at back

Once I had the pieces quilted, I started looking for a coordinating bias tape.  The tape was to be used for the neckline, front opening, hem, and sleeves. I searched through both my stash and mom's stash for a suitable red, but ended up going out to Joann's to find a good red match. I cut strips of fabric and made my own bias tape.

Strips for bias tape

Adding bias tape

These fabrics are complementary

For the pockets on the front, I opted to create some patch pockets that would be large enough to fit my hands and phone. The pockets were quilted with horizontal lines to match the jacket front.

Front pockets

Inside of pockets

Front pockets attached

Here is the finished jacket before washing

I used blue chalk to mark the quilting lines on this jacket and it needed two runs through the wash with cold water to get the chalk washed out.  All the quilting was done on my Bernina 830 Record using the walking foot. The machine handled all three layers beautifully.

Blue chalk still visible

The finished pictures were taken at school during remote learning. For the three weeks between Thanksgiving and Winter break I taught from my classroom while my students were remote. 

No front closure

Both the front and back were lengthened a couple inches

Seams finished on my serger

Quilting visible on inside

Grade for this project

A Linden Sweatshirt Before School Started

The weekend before we went back to school I was feeling a bit anxious and my thoughts were racing.    Sewing is a good way to distract myself from work thoughts and to calm my anxiety. I ended up pulling out a pattern I hadn't sewn in a couple of months, but one that comes together pretty quickly. I used the Linden Sweatshirt to make myself a couple shirts that I could wear later in the school year. 

The fabric for the first shirt is a bright floral that came from Ethel. There was enough to make the entire shirt including the neckband and arm bands. There was even enough left at the end to do the hem band, but I decided to just put in a 1/2" hem instead. 

Bright yellow, orange, and green

When laying out the pieces to cut, I was able to center the big yellow flowers on the front.

Pattern pieces

There was a bit of a pucker in the neckband the first time I put it on. I had to take out a couple inches of serging and redo the seam. 

Pucker under green leaf on neckband 

Neckband a bit narrower, but pucker is gone

Finished shirt on dress form

We are now starting the third week of school and the weather has been too warm for a long sleeve polyester shirt. I did take advantage of my blooming sunflowers and a willing camera person to get a few finished shots though.

Bright flowers everywhere

Length is good without added hem band

All the sunflowers are taller than me

This will be a fun addition to my fall wardrobe

Floral Willow Tank

In the garden with the squash plants

This is my third version of the Willow Tank. The first one was made per the directions, the second one got a button up front, and this one changed to a size 14 top with size 12 sides to improve fitting. The fabric is a Waverly remnant from Ethel called "Courtship Rose".

Upholstery or curtain fabric possibly

After pre-washing, drying, and ironing the piece I had, I began to consider possibilities for the limited yardage.

Two and a half bouquets

I folded the fabric in half and moved the two pieces of the Willow Tank around to try out different flower placements. The front lined up very well with the flowers framing the neck and shoulders, but the fabric piece was too short to then cut the back piece from the remaining piece. I ended up having to turn the back piece upside down and to put in a center back seam.

Someone doesn't want this to lay flat

 I decided to put the center back seam in the yellow area to make it less noticeable. That ensured that there was no flower pattern to line up.

Center back seam

 The flowers now seem to wrap around from the sides, and I don't think it's particularly noticeable that the fabric is upside down from the front.

Center back seam is top-stitched

 The sides are finished with french seams.

French seam over the bust dart

For the armholes and neckline I had two options for bias facing. I ended up choosing the yellow as it matched the background of the flowers perfectly.

Pink or yellow bias facing

 All sewing, including the bias facing was done with my Bernina 1230.

Trimming the sleeve facing

Here is the shirt finished except for the hem.

Front

Back

After the hemming was finished, the shirt stayed on my dress form for a few days before I actually wore it. There wasn't a need to wear anything other than workout and work in the yard clothes. Eventually, I had to run an errand and I put this on for the outing. There was driving involved and I see that sitting down put some wrinkles into my shirt. That didn't stop an impromptu photo shoot though. Pre-pandemic, this business district was often bustling with pedestrians but all is quiet now. I parked my car and hopped out to set up the camera in the window of an empty storefront.

Dressed up for errands

Great flower borders on bottom and top of front

Side view

Flowers frame neckline beautifully

No people, bikes, or cars

A few more pictures were taken in the garden when I returned home. It was a very hot day and I was trying to move quickly before I started sweating.

Checking out the zinnias

Happy zinnias right outside the back door

Back length is good for sitting

Where does my shirt end and the garden begin?

Back view

Squinting a bit in the sun

I think I have the fit for this tank looking good now and will consider it a TNT. There will be more versions of the Willow Tank, I'm sure.