Sunday, April 7, 2019

Shirt, Butterick 5526

At least 3 yards to start
This fantastic fabric was purchased from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul MN a few years ago. Treadle is within walking distance from where one of my sisters lives, so we visit at least once when we're in the neighborhood. The pattern is Butterick 5526, a collared button up shirt. I cut view D in size 16 grading out to 18 at the hips. I also added 2 inches to the length. 

Staystitching the neck edge
The seams were done on my Bernina 717 and the edgestitching and topstitching was done on my Bernina 1230.
Topstitching on the princess seams
French seams for the sides
The hem was folded up 5/8" and then folded under again.
Hem
The front bands were attached and then edgestitched with the black thread.
Edgestitching on the Bernina 1230
It wasn't until I was actually putting the collar together than I noticed I had put interfacing on all four parts of the collar and collar band instead of just two. This collar will be extra supported, hopefully, not too stiff.
Collar and collar band
After attaching the first sleeve, I tried on the shirt to check fit. I forgot that the sleeves were designed to be elbow sleeves, and I didn't like the finished length. If I rolled the cuff up, then the length felt better. The other sleeve was finished and ready to be attached, should I go ahead and put it on or recut and sew up two new ones?
I don't like the 3/4 sleeves, will need to lengthen those next time
I decided to keep the original sleeves this time. The cuffs are now turned back and sewn to the sleeve. There is a second row of edgestitching along the placket and it looks purposeful.

Cuff turned back
When I first tried the shirt on, it also looked like the front sides of the shirt were very different lengths. Seeing it later draped on the dress form, it's clear that they are very nearly equal when draped correctly.
Ready for snaps or buttons
At the start of the project I was picturing snaps for this shirt similar to those pictured below.
Maybe I could find these in a brighter color?
These are not the ones I wanted to use though and 6 snaps would not be enough for the whole shirt. In the next photo I was trying out a set of red buttons. There was another card of these in my stash, so there would be enough for this project.

From the clearance bin at Joann
I opted for the red buttons and set up my Singer 201 and buttonhole attachment to make buttonholes.
Setting up for buttonhole
Finished buttonhole
There are 8 buttonholes total
I used some red quilting thread I had to sew on the buttons. I have no idea how quilting thread will wear for the long term, but it matched the buttons quite well.
Sewing on the red buttons
Here is the finished shirt with all its buttons.
Front of shirt, no ironing after half day of wear
Back view
Side view
I forgot to take off my ID badge for a few photos
The shirt got paired with jeans and boots for work. No glam shots were taken, but I did get a few pics in the math office next to my classroom. I really should scout out a more lighting/background friendly space for pictures.


Tough angle for the camera
Comfy all day

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